Matera

About Matera

Matera is one of Italy’s most distinctive destinations, but it is not a simple city break. The historic Sassi di Matera are districts built into limestone ravines, with steep lanes, uneven paving and many stairs. The two main areas are Sasso Barisano, generally closer to the modern centre, and Sasso Caveoso, which feels rougher and opens towards the Gravina gorge. Start at Piazza Vittorio Veneto, then walk along Via San Biagio and Via Fiorentini before reaching the viewpoints around Piazza San Pietro Caveoso. Via Ridola and Via del Corso are useful for cafés, restaurants and a break from the slopes. Matera is most enjoyable early in the morning or after the main day-trip groups leave. Midday in the Sassi can be crowded, especially in the warmer months, and the pale stone reflects heat with impressive efficiency. Wear shoes with a firm sole. Smooth sandals and ancient paving are not a clever partnership.

Allow at least two full days for Matera sightseeing. Pay for a guided visit to a rock church or a small group tour if you want the history explained properly, rather than simply staring at faded wall paintings and guessing. The rupestrian churches around the city and the Murgia Materana across the gorge are the main cultural attractions. You can reach the Belvedere della Murgia by car, local transport when available, or on foot via the bridge and marked paths, but check conditions before setting out. Heat, limited shade and rough ground make the walk harder than the distance suggests. The Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario and similar cave homes explain how people lived in the Sassi until the mid-20th century, while museums such as MUSMA suit visitors who want more than viewpoints. Opening days, entry rules and temporary closures change, so check official information before building your schedule around one church. Sunrise and late afternoon give the best light over the gorge. Sunset is also when every visitor with a phone discovers photography, so arrive early for a clear view.

Getting to Matera on a budget usually means travelling from Bari, about 65 kilometres away. Trains operated by Ferrovie Appulo Lucane connect Bari with Matera, while regional buses can be useful when rail services do not fit your plans. The journey is not covered by the ordinary national Trenitalia network, so do not assume a standard Italian rail ticket will work. Check the current timetable before leaving Bari, especially on Sundays and public holidays. Matera’s main train station is Matera Centrale, from where the modern centre is walkable, though your accommodation may sit down a steep street. Staying just outside the Sassi, near Via Ridola or the city centre, often gives you better access to buses and lower prices than a cave room with a dramatic photograph attached. For food, try pane di Matera, peperoni cruschi, local pasta and slow-cooked meat dishes. Restaurants with a terrace facing the gorge charge for the view, sometimes fairly and sometimes with great confidence. Book dinner in high season, but compare menus before sitting down. Matera is compact, yet luggage wheels, staircases and cobbles remain natural enemies, so pack light and expect to walk.

Sightseeing in Matera

Matera is best known for the Sassi di Matera, the old districts carved into the ravine on the edge of the modern city. The two main areas are Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso, linked by steep lanes, stone steps and viewpoints over the Gravina. Start near Piazza Vittorio Veneto, where you can look across the roofs and get your bearings before walking downhill. The Sassi are not a single attraction with one entrance. They are a working neighbourhood, with homes, hotels, churches, restaurants and plenty of uneven paving. Wear shoes with a decent sole. Your phone will survive a wrong turn, but your ankles may complain. The best light is usually early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when the pale stone is less harsh and tour groups are thinner. At midday in summer, the exposed streets can feel like a stone oven. Allow at least half a day for the historic centre, and longer if you plan to visit several rock churches and museums. Matera is compact on a map, but the steps make every short walk more ambitious than it looks.

For a closer look at daily life in the old cave homes, visit a casa grotta, a furnished cave dwelling showing how families lived before the Sassi were evacuated in the 1950s. These displays are useful because the view from a postcard does not explain the cramped rooms, shared living space or basic conditions. The Matera Cathedral, on the highest point of the Civita area, is another worthwhile stop for its Romanesque architecture and views over the Sassi. Check current visiting arrangements before you go, as churches and museums can change their schedules for services or restoration. The MUSMA, the Museum of Contemporary Sculpture in Matera, occupies several cave spaces and works well if you want an indoor break from stairs. Some visitors find the ticket cost hard to justify if they are mainly interested in archaeology, so choose it for the setting as much as the collection. You should also look for the smaller rock churches scattered through the old quarters. Their frescoes can be fragile, and access is sometimes controlled. Do not assume every church is open just because its door is visible. Matera has learned, sensibly, that a lock is cheaper than another restoration project.

Cross the ravine for the classic view from Belvedere Murgia Timone, in the Parco della Murgia Materana. You can reach the park by local transport or taxi, depending on the season and your starting point, but verify the current route before setting out. The footbridge across the Gravina has been closed at times, and river crossings are not a sensible improvisation. The park contains prehistoric remains, caves and rock churches, with trails over rough ground rather than a formal city pavement. Go in daylight, carry water, and avoid the hottest part of the afternoon. From the main viewpoint, the Sassi appear spread across the opposite cliff, which is the photograph most visitors came for. It is also one of the few places where Matera’s scale makes sense. Sunset attracts crowds, particularly in high season, so arrive early if you want a clear position by the railing. A guided walking tour can be worth paying for here because the landscape contains details you may otherwise miss, including old cave settlements and drainage channels. Pick a small group and confirm exactly what the tour includes. Some excursions sell a grand title and provide little more than a brisk walk and a flag.

Getting to Matera is straightforward, but not always direct. From Bari, the Ferrovie Appulo Lucane railway and regional buses are the practical public-transport options, while Bari Airport has onward connections that may require a change. Timetables vary, especially on Sundays and public holidays, so check them shortly before travel rather than trusting an old screenshot. Matera’s main railway station is in the modern centre, a manageable walk from the Sassi, although the final descent with luggage is not especially elegant. Base yourself near Via del Corso or the edge of the Sassi if you want restaurants and transport within easy reach. Spend at least one night if possible. The old quarters are quieter after day visitors leave, though some lanes become very dark and slippery, so use a small torch rather than treating your phone battery as a public utility. Try local dishes such as orecchiette, bread from Matera, pulses and grilled vegetables, but compare menus away from the most obvious viewpoints. Restaurants directly beside the main overlooks charge for location as much as food. Matera rewards slow walking, early starts and realistic footwear. It is less rewarding if you arrive in a rental car, attempt to park beside the cathedral, and expect the ancient city to make room.

Hotels in Matera

If you are looking for hotels in Matera, Italy, start with the area rather than the room photos. Matera is split between the historic Sassi districts and the newer town, and the difference matters. Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano put you close to cave churches, stone lanes and viewpoints over the Gravina. They also give you uneven paving, steep steps and limited vehicle access. A hotel near Via Ridola, Piazza Sedile or the edge of the Sassi is often the most practical compromise. You can walk to the main sights and still reach a taxi or bus without dragging a suitcase through a medieval obstacle course. The newer centre around Via del Corso and Piazza Vittorio Veneto has more conventional accommodation, shops and cafés. It is less atmospheric, but usually easier for luggage and public transport.

The main choice is between a cave hotel in Matera and a standard room in a modern building. Cave rooms can be memorable, with thick stone walls and a quiet, cool feel, but they are not automatically better. Some have small windows, dark interiors, damp-smelling stone or awkward steps inside the room. Check recent guest reviews for ventilation, bathroom access and stair details, not just the word “unique”. Air conditioning and heating also deserve attention because the stone temperature can be deceptive. Many properties sit in renovated historic buildings, so lifts may be absent. If you have mobility concerns, confirm the route from the street to reception before booking. A hotel with a view over the canyon can cost more, but you do not need the most expensive terrace to enjoy Matera. Public viewpoints around Belvedere Luigi Guerricchio and the paths near the Sassi provide strong views for free, which is a rare bargain in a heavily visited Italian destination.

Location becomes more important during busy periods. Matera attracts large day-trip crowds, so the Sassi are calmer in the early morning and after dinner, while the middle of the day can feel slow and crowded on the narrow lanes. Staying inside or beside the historic centre lets you visit Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario, the rock churches and the canyon viewpoints before tour groups arrive. Book ahead for weekends, spring, autumn and public holidays, especially if you want a cave suite or a small guesthouse. Read the cancellation terms carefully. Some independent properties have limited reception hours, and late arrivals may require instructions or a meeting point. Breakfast is useful, but do not pay a large premium for a grand buffet unless you actually eat one. Matera’s cafés serve coffee, pastries and local bread, while a proper dinner is a better use of your appetite. Try pane di Matera and local pasta, but expect restaurant bills in the Sassi to reflect the setting.

Getting to your accommodation takes more planning than the map suggests. From Bari, the Ferrovie Appulo Lucane train is often the practical public-transport option, although you should check current schedules before travelling. Matera is not served by Italy’s mainline national rail network, and buses can be more useful depending on your arrival point. From Matera Centrale, you can walk towards the centre, use local transport or take a taxi, but the final route to a Sassi hotel may still involve steps. Ask the property for the nearest vehicle access point and whether luggage assistance is available. If you are driving, do not assume the hotel has a private car park. Parking outside the historic centre and walking in is often less stressful than attempting to follow a satnav into restricted streets. For most travellers, the best Matera accommodation is a well-reviewed room near the Sassi with clear access details, reliable air conditioning and a realistic plan for carrying your bag. Stone walls are attractive. They do not, unfortunately, carry luggage for you.

Restaurants in Matera

Matera has a strong food scene, but the best restaurants are not always the ones with the biggest view or the most polished terrace. In the Sassi districts, start by looking around Via Bruno Buozzi, Via Madonna delle Virtù and the lanes near Piazza San Pietro Caveoso. The restaurants here focus on local cooking, including crapiata, a thick soup of legumes and grains, cavatelli or orecchiette with vegetables, lamb, local cheeses, and bread from Matera. Peperoni cruschi, the dry red peppers associated with Basilicata, also appear on menus. They are crisp, intensely savoury and easy to over-order because they look harmless. They are not. Places such as Trattoria del Caveoso and Baccus are among the names visitors commonly consider in the Sassi, while Osteria Malatesta, closer to the centre, is useful if you want a less formal meal away from the steepest lanes. Menus change, so check the current offering before walking across town for one particular dish. Matera’s restaurants can be excellent, but a cave dining room and a panoramic table do not automatically improve average pasta.

For a more central choice, examine the streets around Via del Corso, Piazza Sedile and Via Ridola. This area gives you more cafés, wine bars and casual restaurants, and it is easier to reach after arriving by bus or train. The old town is walkable, but the paving is uneven and many routes involve stairs. Comfortable shoes beat fashion here, unless your fashion is “person who has just fallen on ancient stone”. Book dinner ahead, especially from spring through autumn, on weekends and during major holidays. You do not always need a reservation for lunch, and eating earlier gives you a better chance of finding a table without waiting. Italian dinner often starts later than visitors expect, while lunch can be the smarter meal for trying a traditional set menu. Ask whether bread, service or a cover charge is included before ordering, and check portion sizes if you are travelling on a modest budget. A restaurant with a famous view may charge for the location, so compare it with a nearby dining room before deciding what is worth paying for.

The most reliable way to eat well in Matera is to treat local specialities as the main event rather than ordering familiar tourist food. Try pane di Matera with regional olive oil, pasta made with durum wheat, beans and greens, grilled meat, and a Basilicata wine such as Aglianico del Vulture if you drink. Vegetarians usually have useful choices because legumes, vegetables and handmade pasta are central to the cuisine, but ask how dishes are prepared rather than relying on a menu translation. For a lighter stop, look for bakeries, focaccia counters and small wine bars around the central streets instead of sitting down for a full meal every time. Restaurants in Matera range from simple trattorias to expensive tasting-menu venues, and quality can vary within the same tourist-heavy area. Read recent reviews for the exact restaurant, not just the neighbourhood, and confirm opening days because seasonal schedules change. If you are staying outside the Sassi, local buses can get you near the centre, but returning late may require a taxi. Plan that part before ordering dessert, which is how many supposedly careful budgets meet their end.

Transport in Matera

Matera has no commercial airport, so most visitors arrive through Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport, roughly 65 kilometres away. Bari is usually the most practical gateway, with more flights and better public transport connections than Brindisi Airport, which is considerably farther. From Bari Airport, you can take the airport train or a shuttle bus to Bari Centrale, then continue towards Matera by regional train or coach. On some dates, direct airport-to-Matera buses also run, but services change with the season, flight schedules and operator. Check the current timetable before you travel rather than trusting an old blog post with a heroic amount of confidence. A taxi from Bari Airport is convenient but expensive for one or two people. For a modest budget, the train-and-bus options usually make more sense, provided your arrival time matches the departures.

The railway connection is operated by Ferrovie Appulo Lucane, usually called FAL. Trains run from Bari towards Matera, with Matera Centrale serving the main arrival point for most visitors. The journey is useful, but it is not a high-speed rail experience. Services can be less frequent at weekends, on public holidays and outside the main daytime period. Some trains may be replaced by buses during engineering works, so check FAL’s current timetable shortly before travelling. Matera Centrale is near the modern centre and within walking distance of the Sassi, although the route includes slopes and steps. If you have a large suitcase, heat and cobbled streets will quickly turn a short walk into a small expedition. FAL also has other Matera stops, including Matera Sud, but these are not automatically better for accommodation in the historic centre.

Long-distance buses are often the simplest way to reach Matera from Rome, Naples, Bari or other Italian cities. Operators and departure points vary, and some services are seasonal, so use the carrier’s current booking system rather than assuming every coach leaves from the same place. Buses generally arrive around the modern town, close to the railway station area or another designated city stop. Allow time to find the exact platform, especially if your ticket names a street rather than a proper terminal. Coaches can be good value and avoid a change in Bari, but journey times depend heavily on traffic. A late arrival may leave you with fewer local transport choices, particularly on Sundays. If you are travelling with a backpack, walking from the bus or train area to accommodation near the Sassi is often manageable. For wheeled luggage, a local taxi can be worth the cost.

Inside Matera, local buses are useful for neighbourhoods outside the historic centre, but they are not a replacement for walking around the Sassi. Much of the old town has narrow lanes, steps and pedestrian areas where normal buses cannot go. Urban services connect the modern centre, residential districts and outlying areas, while taxis cover the awkward final stretch when you have luggage or an early departure. Buy a bus ticket through the approved local sales channels and validate it if required. Do not assume the driver can always sell one. At busy times, especially summer afternoons and weekends, roads near the Sassi can be slow and taxis may be harder to find. The practical plan is to stay near Matera Centrale or the centre, walk to the viewpoints and cave churches, and use public transport mainly for arrival, departure and longer trips. Check live transport information before setting off, because Italian timetables occasionally treat the word “frequent” as an optimistic suggestion.

Shopping in Matera

Matera is not a major shopping city, and that is useful to know before you arrive. The main retail area is around Via del Corso, Via Ridola, and the streets near Piazza Vittorio Veneto. You will find clothing shops, bookshops, cafés, small food stores, and souvenir shops within an easy walk of the historic centre. The Sassi districts add more character, but their steep lanes and uneven stone surfaces are not ideal for carrying several bags. Start shopping in the morning, when the streets are calmer and the summer heat is less punishing. Late afternoon is also workable, although day-trippers can make the central lanes slow. Matera is compact enough to explore on foot from the bus station, but wear shoes with decent grip. The city has a talent for turning a short shopping trip into a hill workout.

For useful edible gifts, look for pane di Matera, local olive oil, dried pasta, wine from Basilicata, and products made with the region’s famous crusco pepper. The dried red pepper is often sold whole or used in sauces, snacks, and seasoning mixes. Check the label for the producer and origin rather than buying the first attractively packaged item beside a viewpoint. Some shops sell gift boxes aimed at visitors, which can be convenient but are not always the best value. A small food shop outside the busiest Sassi lanes may offer better prices and more practical packaging for travel. Matera ceramics are another good choice, especially small plates, cups, and decorative pieces inspired by local patterns. Ask how fragile items will be wrapped before paying, and remember that a large ceramic bowl is less charming after three train changes. If you are travelling with hand luggage, choose something compact or ask whether the seller can arrange delivery. You may also see woven goods, leather items, prints, and handmade souvenirs. Quality varies, so inspect the finish and ask where an item was made. “Made in Italy” and “made locally in Matera” are not always the same claim.

The best approach to shopping in Matera is to compare before buying. Walk through the central streets first, note the styles and prices, then return to the shop that offers the item you actually want. Tourist-oriented stores around the Sassi can charge more for attractive presentation, while ordinary supermarkets and food shops are better for olive oil, biscuits, pasta, and local wine. Markets and temporary stalls can appear on different days or in different squares, so check current local notices rather than relying on an old guidebook. Small independent shops may accept cards, but carrying some cash is sensible, particularly for low-cost purchases. If you arrive by train, remember that Matera’s railway connection serves the city centre but is separate from the national Trenitalia network; buses from Bari and other towns may be more practical depending on your route. Keep receipts for food and fragile goods, and leave room in your bag. The most worthwhile shopping in Matera is usually modest: one well-made local object or a few regional ingredients, not a suitcase full of generic cave-themed merchandise.

Nightlife in Matera

Matera is not a major clubbing city, and that is useful to know before you arrive expecting Ibiza with better stonework. Matera nightlife is mainly about aperitivo, wine bars, small cocktail rooms and late dinners, with the liveliest areas around the Sassi, Piazza Sedile, Via Ridola and parts of Via del Corso. Start around 18:30 or 19:00, when locals begin meeting for a drink and the evening light makes the cave districts look far more expensive than they are. Many visitors stay near Piazza San Pietro Caveoso or Piazza San Francesco, then walk uphill towards the centre. You will find bars serving local wine, craft beer, cocktails and simple snacks such as taralli, olives, cured meat and regional cheeses. Prices are usually higher in the most scenic parts of the Sassi, so check the menu before sitting down. A view of the ravine is worth paying a little extra for once. Paying a lot extra for three olives and a warm spritz is less defensible.

For a proper night out, look first at Via Ridola and Piazza Sedile, where the concentration of bars makes it easy to move on if the first place is full or playing music designed for people who enjoy shouting over it. The Sassi have atmospheric wine bars and late-night drinking spots, but the lanes are uneven, steep and polished smooth by years of shoes. Wear proper footwear, especially after rain. Matera’s restaurant scene is a bigger part of the evening than its dance-club scene. Book ahead for dinner on Friday and Saturday, particularly in spring, summer and around public holidays. Try local dishes such as orecchiette, cialledda, peperoni cruschi and the region’s hard cheeses, but do not assume every restaurant in the Sassi offers good value. Some rely heavily on the setting. If you want a quieter drink, move away from the main viewpoints and look along the side streets near the centre. Live music and DJ nights appear in certain bars and cultural spaces, but schedules change with the season, so check the venue’s current social media on the day rather than trusting an old blog post.

Getting home requires more thought than getting out. Matera is compact, but nightlife transport is limited, and buses are not the answer at every hour. Stay within walking distance of your accommodation if you plan to drink. The walk from the central streets to parts of the Sassi can be tiring, and some routes include stairs, so allow extra time instead of treating Google Maps like a personal sherpa. Taxis are available, but late-night coverage can be thinner than in larger Italian cities, so save a local taxi number or ask your accommodation to arrange one. In summer, the busiest evenings bring crowds around the main squares and popular viewpoints. Keep your phone and wallet secure in dense groups, and take care on the stone steps after drinking. For a more local-feeling Matera evening, choose an early aperitivo, eat slowly, then have one or two drinks in a small bar rather than chasing a nightclub that may not exist. The best party in Matera is usually a sociable night among the old streets, not a 4 a.m. club finish.

Coulture in Matera

Matera’s culture is inseparable from its landscape. The city’s historic Sassi districts, Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano, are not simply old streets with photogenic caves. They are neighbourhoods built into the soft tufa rock, with homes, stairways, cisterns, churches and workshops fitted around the ravine. Families lived in severe conditions here until much of the population was moved to newer parts of Matera in the 1950s. That history matters, because the Sassi were once presented as a national embarrassment before restoration changed their fortunes. UNESCO added the site to its World Heritage List in 1993, and Matera became European Capital of Culture in 2019. Start near Piazza Vittorio Veneto, then walk down into the Sassi without a fixed route. The lanes are confusing by design, or at least they feel that way after the fifth staircase. Wear shoes with decent grip. Smooth stone becomes slippery, and the city is much less manageable with a suitcase than tourist photos suggest.

The most useful way to understand Matera’s past is to visit at least one rupestrian church and one reconstructed cave dwelling. Santa Maria de Idris, carved into the rock above Sasso Caveoso, is the better-known church, but it can feel crowded when tour groups arrive. San Pietro in Caveoso gives you a strong sense of how religious buildings and the ravine fit together. Across the area, look for faded frescoes, rock-cut tombs and simple water systems rather than expecting a grand cathedral interior. Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario shows how several generations could share a cave home with animals, basic furniture and limited light. Some displays simplify a complicated social history, so treat them as introductions rather than complete accounts. The MUSMA, the Museum of Contemporary Sculpture, places modern works in palazzi and excavated spaces, which makes more sense here than a standard white-box gallery. Check current opening arrangements before setting out, especially outside the main season. Museum schedules in southern Italy can be practical in theory and interpretive in practice.

Food in Matera is part of its cultural identity, not just fuel between viewpoints. Try pane di Matera, a firm, fragrant bread with a distinctive high shape and protected status. It is good with local olive oil, but buying a loaf to carry all day is less clever than it sounds. The crust can probably survive a minor building collapse. Look for dishes based on durum wheat, legumes, seasonal vegetables and lamb, along with cialledda, a rustic bread salad that suits hot weather. Peperoni cruschi, dried sweet peppers fried until crisp, are associated with Basilicata and often appear as a garnish or snack. Restaurants inside the Sassi charge for the setting, and some menus lean heavily on presentation. You can eat well there, but compare menus away from the main viewpoints, particularly around Via del Corso and the streets leading toward Piazza Sedile. For a more ordinary local rhythm, visit a bakery or food shop in the modern city and buy what residents actually take home. Dinner starts late by some northern European standards, while lunch is often the easier time for a quieter meal.

Matera also has a living cultural scene beyond cave tours. Religious festivals shape the calendar, with the Festa della Bruna on 2 July as the major local event, combining processions, music and a famously dramatic destruction of the festival float. Crowds are serious, so book accommodation and transport well ahead if you plan to attend. The Murgia Materana across the ravine adds another layer to the region’s culture, with rock churches and walking routes reached from the Belvedere area. You can get there on foot in suitable weather, but the return climb is not a casual stroll in summer. From Bari, Ferrovie Appulo Lucane trains and buses connect with Matera, while Matera is not served by a direct Trenitalia mainline service. Local buses can help with the modern suburbs, but the historic centre is best explored on foot. Go early in the morning or near sunset for better light and fewer groups, then leave room for the city’s uneven pace. Matera rewards attention to details such as doorways, carved water channels and bread shops more than rushing between viewpoints for another photograph.

History in Matera

Matera’s history starts long before the famous cave houses. People used the ravines around the modern city from the Palaeolithic period, helped by defensible rock ledges, natural shelters and springs. Over time, temporary shelters became rooms cut into the soft limestone. The old town grew around two deep districts, Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano, divided by the Civita, the higher central ridge. This was not a carefully planned medieval town. It developed by extending, rebuilding and adapting spaces in the rock. That explains the uneven lanes and low doorways you see today. It also explains why navigation can be irritating. Your phone may show a route, but the route may end at a staircase that has clearly taken personal offence. Greek influence reached the wider Basilicata region, while Roman rule brought Matera into a larger road and administrative network. Later, the town passed through Lombard, Byzantine, Norman, Angevin and Aragonese control. You can still see this layered past in the churches, defensive buildings and street plan rather than in one single grand monument.

The most distinctive part of Matera is its rupestrian heritage, meaning buildings and churches carved into or built against the rock. Many cave churches were decorated with frescoes between the early medieval period and the later Middle Ages. Santa Maria de Idris, cut into the Monterrone rock, is one of the best-known examples, while the nearby complex of San Pietro in Caveoso sits dramatically above the ravine. The church of Madonna delle Virtù is another important stop, especially if you want to understand how large cave spaces could be adapted for worship. These sites are not interchangeable photo backdrops. Some preserve damaged frescoes, burial areas or traces of changing religious use, so take time to read the explanations. The Matera Cathedral, on the Civita, dates from the 13th century and reflects the Romanesque style of the period, although later repairs altered its interior. For the ancient water system, look at the Palombaro Lungo beneath Piazza Vittorio Veneto. It is a large underground cistern, not a cave church, and it shows how water storage was central to daily life in a dry landscape.

For centuries, families, animals and workshops shared the Sassi. By the 20th century, overcrowding, poor sanitation and limited infrastructure had made living conditions severe. Carlo Levi’s book Christ Stopped at Eboli, published in 1945, brought wider attention to the poverty of southern Italy, including the world around Matera, although the book is based mainly on Levi’s exile in nearby Aliano. In the 1950s, the Italian state began moving many residents from the cave districts into newer neighbourhoods such as La Martella, built outside the old centre. The relocation improved sanitation and housing, but it also broke up established communities. Empty homes later became a political and cultural problem, then an opportunity for restoration. Matera’s revival was gradual, not a sudden film-set makeover. UNESCO added the Sassi and the Park of the Rupestrian Churches to the World Heritage List in 1993, and Matera became European Capital of Culture in 2019. Those labels helped investment and tourism, but they also mean more accommodation conversions and higher demand in the historic centre. Some restored caves are useful museums or well-designed guesthouses. Others are simply dark rooms with a good marketing department.

Plan your visit around the terrain. The Sassi are best explored on foot, but you will deal with steep steps, polished stone and uneven surfaces, so sensible shoes matter more than stylish ones. Start early, particularly in warmer months, then visit the main cave churches before the middle of the day, when tour groups usually make the narrow lanes slower. Late afternoon gives better light over the Gravina canyon, but popular viewpoints near Belvedere Murgia can still fill up around sunset. Matera is reached by regional train from Bari on the Ferrovie Appulo Lucane line, or by bus, depending on the current timetable. The station is in the modern town, and the historic centre requires a walk uphill or a local connection. Check services before travelling because regional transport in southern Italy rewards planning and occasionally tests your character. Stay near Via Ridola or the Sassi if you want to walk to the historic sights, but compare reviews carefully because cave rooms vary in ventilation and accessibility. Food also reflects the local landscape: try pane di Matera, made from durum wheat, with local cheeses, vegetables or grilled meat. You do not need an expensive restaurant to eat well, and paying extra merely for a cave-shaped dining room is optional.